Cedar Shed 8 x 12 ft. Rancher Storage Shed

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Price: $2,629.00   

Product Feature

• A great wood shop or tractor garage! Our Medium Size Rancher shed gives you the most in economical utility! Perfect for loading and unloading with its double doors.

Product Description

This is our mid sized Cedarshed Rancher 8x12 Shed. It has 4 foot panels all the way around and a huge pair of double doors. Use this great shed as a wood shop or a tractor garage! The exterior is composed of premium Western Red Cedar rough beveled clear cedar siding. As a Pre Fabricated Panelized Kit, you won't have any trouble building this large Cedarshed kit in less than one day.

Cedar Shed 8 x 12 ft. Rancher Storage Shed Review

After completing the shed in November 2009, here's the list of suggestions I sent the manufacturer:

- combine the 3 instruction documents into one, then remove the redundant sections (such as tools required).

- for unassembled individual piece parts (such as trim), always identify the part dimensions right in the exploded how-to-assemble drawing, not just in the parts list.

- 4' carpenter levels are now much more common than 3', and just as suitable.

- instead of "good adhesive", suggest a typical brand, such as PL400. estimate the total number of tubes needed (which can be substantial for a complete glue job). ditto for caulk.

- warn that if glue is used, be sure to wipe away any excess squeezed out between components. this is particularly important along the base of wall panels, where excess glue might reach shingles, making it difficult to subsequently pry shingles away from the wall before slipping in the skirting.

- although examining the actual wall panels makes it clear where caulking is needed, the illustration provided is poor and confusing. nowadays, digital photo production is so cheap and easy that your caulking illustration would be better shown with good before-and-after photos. similarly, your roof ridge shingle overhang detail would be clearer if drawn at a larger scale, or done as a photo.

- suggest checking building codes for any required minimum distance of sheds from main buildings or property lines.

- proofread to correct typos like "fiundation choices" under "foundation preparation".

- another foundation choice to suggest is a pressure treated 2x4 (or so) frame with drain holes, filled with gravel, into which the patio stones can be set and easily leveled. if the underlying surface is particularly hard and difficult to level, a gravel layer inside a frame probably makes leveling 12 stones much quicker (although leveling the entire gravel frame on a hard surface might be just as difficult as leveling 12 stones without gravel).

- include the diagonal measurement on the foundation plan, for quick confirmation of squareness.

- the variation in the actual wxh dimensions of the 2x4 foundation joists was surprisingly high, often making it hard to get a precisely flat surface on both sides along two joined joists.

- it's tempting for novices to leave joists laying horizontally on the ground and screw them together with the drill also held horizontally, but that requires much more force to hold and push the drill. suggest temporarily standing up joists vertically during assembly so the drill bit can be pointed at the ground, to let gravity and the weight of the drill do most of the pushing work, thereby taking much less effort.

- more preassembly of foundation components would be desireable.

- the edge lamination on one plywood panel was poor, and had separated at many spots; it shouldn't have passed qa.

- although cedar is soft and generally easy to drill, as many predrilled 1/16" pilot holes as possible would be nice. you could always offer them as a higher-priced option.

- instructions should suggest using the 12" scrap 2x4 packaging pieces as spacers to quickly set the inside spacing between joists.

- the plywood sheet instructions say to use screws but the illustration says to use nails.

- the asymmetrical joist layout doesn't specify at which end the doors should go, or whether it makes a difference.

- most of the illustrations show a fully threaded screw, while the provided screws actually have a smooth shank per the parts list.

- no mention is made of the supplied drill bits.

- door framing and wall panel installation along doors should mention the importance of leveling and squareness (via diagonal measurement) for easier subsequent door hanging.

- door framing makes no mention of the proper fastener sizes to use.

- bottom door skirt installation isn't explicitly illustrated, and should be noted or mentioned.

- collar tie instructions should state the goal is to space the walls to an exact 69" outside measurement along their tops, not just to tie them together. if glueing walls, ties should be installed when the wall panels go up, not later (after all walls are up, just before installing roof panels) because glued walls will be harder to flex and tie into the proper shape.

- roof panel installation doesn't specify in what order to install the remaining roof panels after placing the first two end roof panels. it's tempting to install the end panels at both ends first so the middle panels easily stay up with just friction when dropped into place, but you have to be careful to leave just enough space so the middle panels actually fit in (especially if glueing the end panels). alternatively, if you leave one pair of end panels to be installed last, you shouldn't have any fit problems, but it will take a little more muscle or rigging to keep the middle panels in position during installation.

- the illustrated gusset installation (one gusset per rafter) doesn't jive with the parts list gusset layout (two gussets on some rafters).

- the nice soffits on the side walls makes the exposed tar paper left under the eaves outside the end walls look bad. end wall overhangs should have soffits too.

- the supplied fascia is three pieces per side, not two as illustrated for installation.

- the vertical trim installation illustration is the page that cries out most to have the trim piece dimensions (especially lengths) shown right in the picture.

- warn that nailing the skirting on window panels has to watch out for different interior joist positions than on other wall panels.

- the supply of finishing nails was a tad short. also, a handful of the screws had too much paint in their bit holes to be useable.

- the door hanging instructions are woefully inadequate. the rest of the shed is fairly forgiving if not assembled precisely, but the doors will look terrible if the opening isn't square or level, if one door is installed before confirming the other fits, if their cross pieces don't align, etc. emphasize shimming both doors into position on all sides before screwing in the hinges.

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